freni- "Tutto risolto ragazzi." ?? [English]

[zoharmann]

Hello,
I'm hoping for an English speaker here...

There is a lot of talk about the brakes on:

http://www.triumphrat.net/modules.php?op=modload&name=Forum&file=viewforum&forum=19

We have a list of >30 owners of 2005/2006 Triumph Speed Triples with brake problems.

Someone said that there is a solution here:

http://www.triumphchepassione.com/freni-speed-triple-1050.htm
"Tutto risolto ragazzi." ??

Can anyone provide information in English?

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

[traduzione da http://babelfish.altavista.com/tr]

Ciao, Sto sperando per un anglofono qui...
Ci è molto parla dei freni sopra:


Abbiamo una lista di 30 proprietari dei tripli di 2005/2006 di velocità di trionfo con i problemi del freno.

Qualcuno ha detto che ci è una soluzione qui:

http://www.triumphchepassione.com/freni-speed-triple-1050.htm
"Tutto risolto ragazzi." ??

Può chiunque fornire le informazioni in inglese?

[Focus]

It's a quite complex and long text, maybe I can try to translate it for you, but it will take a little while, since I have to look around for some terms I don't know in english.
The article is about the brake problems that affected almost all the 2005 Speed Triple production. Here in Italy the problem was resolved by Triumph with the substitution of the brake pistons (with teflon covered ones). All the owners that had their bike "operated" found a good power and feeling with the brakes. I'll proceed with the complete translation, be patient please.
Regards

[Focus]

ok, here's a rough translation. I hope I didn't make too many mistakes, and you can understand everything.

bye


Speed Triple 1050 brakes issues:
since its first presentation in 2005, all the testers and owners of the english naked pointed out a "strange" behavior of the brake system; some sort of poor feeling with the handlebar lever (too spongy and with extremely long excursion). With this article we'll try to enlighten once and for all this tedious problem which affects all the 1050 models and some 955 models too. The issue will be explained in a comprehensible, objective and technical way.
It's not about how to manage the problem, since we don't have the ability and competence to do that.
It's a collection of the workarounds of some members of our forum, who decided share their experiences with all of us.

Let's start from the top:

1) Radial brake master cylinder:
Better response and power, but not definitive solution. Many different models, from racing to street use.
Plus: Not very expensive (between 200€ or less and 250€). Can be taken with you when you buy a new bike.
Minus: as mentioned, it doesn't solve the problem completely.

2) Brake hoses:
The factory supplied ones are already of good quality. No rubber. But they're very hard and stiff. If you decide to mount a radial M.C. you'll probably need to change them, they're too short.
Plus: inexpensive, plenty of models to choose from
Minus: Doesn't solve the problem.

3) Brake fluid:
No need to use special fluids. For street use a DOT4 synthetic fluid is OK, no problems with seals and calipers. Do not use DOT5 silicon-based fluid since it may damage o-ring seals, and leave greasy residuals in the hoses.
For a racing use you can go for a DOT5.1 with synthetic base, more resistant to high temps. It needs frequent substitution. It doesn't solve the problem.

4) Brake pads:
Many different brands and kinds to choose from, depending on one's personal preference. For street use, go for organic compound (not synterized), it brakes well when cold, and doesn't "eat" disks.
Plus: better performance
Minus: not a definitive solution.

5) Brake disks:
This is another quality item that comes with the bike. Good material and dimensions. Many manufacturers present alternative models, but we suggest to change the factory ones only if necessary.
Plus: possible better performance, lighter, aesthetic factor.
Minus: very expensive (over 400€), and doesn't solve the problem.

6) Brake calipers
Here we come to the main suspect. From an accurate analysis (by SpeedCama, Detonimax and a technical colleague), their body is not stiff enough (they tend to "open" under the braking pressure), and the pistons flow too hardly. The require more strength on the lever, with consequent lack of modulability, and initial "void" of the lever itself.
There are some kits from different manufacturers, specially designed for the Speed Triple. Or you can change the calipers with aftermarket ones, usually CNC machined from ergal.
Plus: good feeling and power, it solve the problem
Minus: very very expensive, about 400€ for every caliper.

Temporary measures without components substitution.

Try the following methods when the lever excursion is too long. They last some hundreds of Km.They don't solve the problem.

1) Brake hoses bleed, to be made by hand, possibly bleeding the M.C. too.

2) The Maurus way: it consists in taking a clamp and get the pads further:
- take a clamp
- find a good fix point on the caliper for the clamp, and move the pad away from the disc
- repeat for every pad
- take back pressure to the system throwing the lever several times
- you're done.
this operation let you gain lever excursion, which gets longer after 400/500Km. You can repeat this operation every time you think it's needed. The name was taken after the Nickname of the member who first tried it.

3) Brake pistons cleaning and lubrication.
This is a quite long and boring intervention, since you must disassemble the calipers from the forks and from the hoses. The results of this operations are quite satisfactory.

- detach the calipers from the forks, and unscrew them from the hoses. Pay attention to the brake fluid, it's very corrosive and could damage painted parts
- remove pads, let all the fluid flow out of the calipers, then extract the pistons from their places grabbing with an appropriate clamp.
- clean up the pistons from the pad-dust with warm water, soap and a soft brush. Clean the caliper and the o-rings too (pay attention not to cut or damage them, use a small but rounded tip)
- after drying everything with air, re-assemble all the parts. First the o-ring, accurately lubricated with a dedicated grease (Brembo), then the pistons (lubricated as well)
- Finally the bleeding, very accurate because the calipers are now completely empty. Use new fluid.

This operation requires quite a good skill and patience. It lasts for about 2000Km.

4) Substitution of pistons and o-rings


A little spot dedicated to 955 Speeds and previous, which were affected by the same problem. Not all were affected, and the problem was less important. The above methods are still valid for this models, but we add this specific intervention:

correct tightness of the calipers screws:
Unscrew the calipers screws, one at a time unless you want to completely disassemble the calipers (for cleaning or changing components). Once unscrewed, clean accurately the thread, put 2 or 3 drops of tread-glue (not sure of the term), and screw with a torque wrench set on 25-28Nm. Do this for all the 4 screws.
After this you should notice an increased stiffness of the calipers.


Attention!!!

The problem has been solved. Triumph Italia prepared a kit made of special teflon-covered pistons which, once installed, give to the Speed Triple the braking power that such a bike deserves.

addendum:
The 2006 models with frame number higher than XXX...253302 should have the modified pistons/o-rings installed by factory, and thus should not be affected by this problem.

[Wembo]

proprietari dei tripli di 2005/2006 di velocità di trionfo


I traduttori automatici mi fanno morire dalle risate!!!
Io sono proprietario di un triplo da scatto da trionfo!